A couple of weeks ago, my 2010 Toyota Yaris, with 319,000 or so miles on it, started acting a bit strange on the way into work. Every time I hit a mildly rough patch of road, really anything that was not perfectly smooth, the car started to waddle. I had no immediate rush appointments, so decided to stop at the Muffler Man on Plainfield Avenue, which Google Maps assured me was open. They immediately had time to check it out and confirm my suspicion that a bushing in the steering mechanism somewhere had worn out. Aside from normal items that wear out, such as windshield wipers, headlights, batteries and tires, this was only the second thing that had ever gone wrong with the vehicle since I bought it with 12 miles on it. The WOMAN owner of the Plainfield Muffler Man suggested that I go have lunch at the Choo Choo Grill, right across the street. Hmm, I thought… I’ve been passing by the Choo Choo Grill on my way to work for as long as I have been in the Greater Grand Rapids (Michigan) area. Finally time to check it out!
So I did. A friend called just as I was walking out of the Muffler Man door, and when I told him I was going there to have lunch, he informed me that their onion rings are famous, and that his in-laws had met there! Ok. That sealed it. Off I went.
And had the olive burger and onion rings. And yes, the onion rings were really good. I told them I’d been driving by for 35 years, and they said they were glad I stopped. Apparently business has been slow because people think they are closing. Well, they assured me that yes, they would like to retire, but no, it’s not closing. The food was great. A very cozy place with 3 tables and a few more seats at the counter.
If you are on the north end of Grand Rapids, check it out!!!
When I was younger, my mother had a bunch of plastic flowers, and some of them looked just like the yellow flower above. I never thought these actually existed, until I saw some at the annual fall Chrysanthemum show at the Fredrik Meijer Gardens in Grand Rapids, Michigan. WOW! Pretty amazing.
I always try to convince any out of town visitors to join me for a tour of the gardens and equally amazing sculpture park.
The first sentence is: The past is a foreign country. They do things differently there.
My friend Sean said he would like to be able to hear me read this to think about it. So if you would rather listen than read, please click on the audio file here. Or scroll down to find the text.
As soon as we mention the past, we invoke the existence of time. Of course physicists and cosmologists know that time is not linear, and the past does not disappear. When we look at a starry sky, we are seeing light that left the surface of its star at different times, depending on which star we are looking at. Unless we’re using a telescope, probably many different stars, so we are simultaneously receiving light that is young and old. But from our conventional experience of time, it does seem as if the future becomes the present, and then the past. In other words, metaphorically, time flows.
Heraclitus warned us that, despite a river having a permanent name, you can’t step into it twice. Furthermore, he noted that the person doing the stepping changes along with the river. For now, I will focus on the river. The point being that the name, perhaps, carries not so important a set of data with it as the temperature of the water, the pH of the water, the minerals carried along, dissolved and traveling far, or locked into pebbles or sand, and merely vibrating, rolling a short way, or participating in a mixture of those activities. The fish, the algae, the protozoans, the insect larvae, all contribute to the entity we call a river. The shoreline spreads to a varying degree, sometimes shrinking to almost a true line, other times widening to a broad swath. Is the young kid casting a lure into the trout pool a part of the river now? What about three hours ago, when she was eating breakfast at her mother’s kitchen table?
The land and the river merge into a unity. Without land in sight, there is no river. Perhaps a lake, and certainly an ocean, reaches far enough to conceal its boundaries from the one who floats on it or within its volume. But a river? A river carves the land, and the land contains the river. The land the river crosses defines the river itself. So how to separate the river from the country it flows through? The otter doesn’t care. Nor does the dragonfly. Alive for a few seasons, these entities might not notice changes. Either the environment supports its life, or does not.
Yet, longer lived entities, holding greater networks of memory, may note that these water molecules, with this concentration of dissociated hydrogen ions, and that concentration of dissolved calcium atoms, the exact position of the edge of the water, the depth profile of the silt along the 43rd parallel, vary from the characteristics recorded during youth. The air above the water-land-country mixes with the under-layers, providing the oxygen that the inhabitants, both visible and microscopic, require.
As the composition of the atmosphere changes, the transfer of energy to the water-land-country varies. A thick layer of ice covered what we today call Alaska and Chukchi. Now people refer to this same range of latitudes and longitudes, modified as required by the ongoing drift of the tectonic plates, as Beringia. The people who scientists believe, and aboriginal Americans say, skirted its edges in boats to people the western coasts of the Americas, or walked along the edges of its widening corridor to the interiors of these continents, likely used a different name. Whatever its handle, Beringia is a different country, and the history waves plying the ether carry onward the observations, thoughts, stories and acts of a different time, no less vital than the one we currently call now.
“I was wondering if I would figure in the post about the conference,” my colleague and friend Shankar wrote, when I still hadn’t posted anything after my return home. “You will FIGURE!” I informed him. After all, it was a lot of his unrelenting hard work that made the event happen in the first place. Here’s Shankar’s video image, while he is introducing one of the dignitaries.
The 6th Asian Heat Treat and Surface Engineering Conference and Expo was held in Chennai, India, the first week of March 2020. We all watched with dismay as the coronavirus spread, and fear and government restrictions started impacting many events world-wide. Several of the speakers who were scheduled to participate from overseas were not able to attend. There was still a lot of great content presented to an enthusiastic audience. For people who are not engineers, heat treating is a technology and an art form that makes modern technology possible! There’s some evidence that early humans were intentionally heat treating stones to improve their characteristics and usefulness as long ago as 45,000 years (or more!)
As you can see in the above photo, conferences in India are MUCH more COLORFUL than those in the USA. Of course, life in general is much more colorful in India than in the USA and Canada and Europe. That is certainly one of the things that I enjoy about traveling in India. Lots of colors and spices are what I enjoy. For those who have not traveled in India, two other senses can be challenging to deal with. Sounds, especially anywhere that they are intentionally amplified, tend to be LOUD. (I had to wear earplugs at one point during the weeklong religious ceremony that I attended in Rishakesh in 2019!). And the smells are wonderful when it’s spices and incense, but when it’s air pollution, it’s not so pleasant. As for tactile, the main difference that I experienced during this trip was that it was hot outside, and one of the Hindu temples I visited was extremely crowded inside (I literally had to be pulled toward and then back away from the shrine where I offered a prayer.) But the conference itself was in a well air conditioned hall, so it was comfortable!
This conference was supposed to be the first I attended in India, but I got a little warm up at the Royal Society of Chemistry Smart Materials Conference at Periyar University in Salem the day before this event started. Indian protocol requires a detailed introduction of dignitaries. We were honored by the Minister of Industry of the State of Tamil Nadu, Mr. M. C. Sampath, who attended wearing the traditional Indian men’s white clothing. Scottish men are not the only ones who wear skirts! The photo at this link is from a website selling clothes, and is not the Minister we heard from, but it gives an idea of this traditional garment.
Soon it was time for my presentation on the Yoga of Failure Analysis. Usually I not nervous when I give a technical talk, but here I was going to be telling Indian people about yoga! The talk was definitely different from the rest of the presentations. I mentioned how the great Patanjali, the compiler and editor of the Yoga Sutras, was teaching that direct perception of the world was a legitimate way to obtain right knowledge way back (scholars say no later than) 1600 years ago. This was at the time when Western philosophers were still completely enamored with Plato’s Ideal Forms, and distrusted any data coming through the senses.
The audience was happy to hear that, and broke into applause. One of my major goals had been to remind my colleagues from the sub-continent that their ancient culture has more value today than many of them realize. Well, the grass is always greener….on the other side of the fence!
However, since my return home, I found out that I was apparently WAY OFF, and that Indian philosophers were actually discussing sensory input as a source of right knowledge as long as 2500 years ago. Someone I recently met at a semi-atheist church had called my attention to Matter and Mind: The Vaiśeṣika Sūtra of Kaṇāda, recently translated by Subhash Kak. Indian philosophy is just AMAZING. It has always been pretty much “self-evident truth” (at least to me, once I started thinking about it!) that there is NO source of knowledge that does not originate in the sensory organs of SOMEONE. There’s no other way to get raw data so that one’s intuition can effectively function. But Western science was held back for a very long time due to the way that Plato was practically diefied!
So, any of my Indian friends who are reading this, maybe you will invite me back in a few years to share my latest findings about how to cultivate clear thought! Subhash Kak is an engineering professor at Oklahoma State University with lots of side interests!
In addition to giving the Keynote and a second, more technical talk, at the conference, I had the opportunity to teach a short seminar on How to Negotiate Failure Analysis Work. There were about 60 people, so not everyone posed in the photo.
I flew on a ticket purchased through Orbitz on Hahn Air, and then eventually found out, after 3 months and 2 long phone calls later, Hahn Air has no airplanes. I was really traveling on Spice Jet. They don’t actually give you a confirmation electronically til you show up at the airport, if you don’t buy the ticket through an Indian company. But all went well on the non-stop flight from Guwahati to Chennai. I have found my uncertainty about loose ends less anxiety producing on this trip for some reason.
I actually prefer how Indian airlines board their planes. If there are two doors, they board from front and back based on where you are sitting. People don’t usually have too much carry on baggage on domestic flights, and it’s much more democratic. Like in the OLD days in the US when they boarded the BACK seats first, so people did not have to crawl on top of each other. The person sitting next to me was not talkative. So be it.
The coronavirus situation is causing problems worldwide. The reason for this trip to India at this time was a Heat Treating and Surface Engineering Conference and Expo that was sponsored by the Chennai ASM International Chapter. But five of the planned international speakers cancelled. At least one was taking the opportunity to present at two conferences.
So at the last minute I got invited to present my Keynote for the Heat Treating conference at a small university in Salem, Tamil Nadu, the day before the Chennai event started. This second conference, on smart materials, was sponsored by the British Royal Society of Chemistry.
It is pretty amazing to me to show up at a place half way around the world, and knowing a few people who I have kept in contact with since my last trip to Chennai in 2017, be immediately accepted as an honored guest. That’s the benefit of belonging to an international society.
I opened by telling the audience that before I became an engineer, I thought I wanted to be a chemist, having had Marie Curie as my childhood heroine. So, a few decades late, I will say that being the keynote speaker at a Royal Society of Chemistry conference is close enough to being called an “honorary chemist” for a day. Drs. Gopi and Gopi, a married couple, who organized the conference, she a physicist specializing in magnetism, he an actual chemist, sent me the below photo of me sitting up there (being stared at) as the center “dignitary” of the event! This was an article from the local paper, that is (presumably written in Tamil) and I do not understand at all!
Periyar University is named after a famous atheist social reformer. India has many social reformers. But Thanthai Periyar(see link at left), who emphasized the dignity of every individual, was controversial in this very religious and spiritual country.
The conference got off to a late start, and the Indians do not, apparently, “believe in” letting people read their slides themselves. And every one of the organizing committee members insisted on personally naming and thanking every one of the speakers. And every one of the speakers gets a full introduction. The organizers always think it is important for the attendees to know how smart, important, and etc. etc. etc. the wonderful people who have come to enlighten them ARE! So it was a good thing the main original keynote was not there, or we would have been off to a later start than we were. I was told to prepare a 20 minute and a 45 minute talk. As the introductions wore on, I eventually was given 2-3, maximum 5 minutes instead of 20, although I did use the whole 45 minute slot after lunch.
I was pleasantly surprised to see so many women students in the auditorium. I was told that the student body is actually 60% women. Yeah!
Lunch, that was another story. We had been told we were going to be taken to the Salem Cafe for lunch, which was where they served us giant Thali platters on palm leaves the day before. I asked “Why don’t we stay here on the campus and eat with the STUDENTS???” That idea was not even entertained. It would have put us back on schedule, but no, they insisted we could get to the Salem Cafe, eat and get back to talk in 20 minutes. I refused to have anything but a coke, my second one this trip. Because once you start eating, they keep feeding you and I knew I would get indigestion from eating too fast. Of course, lunch took an hour.
I wanted us to get back on time because I knew we had a 5 hour drive to get back to Chennai for the original conference. Well the 5 hour drive was really a 6 hour drive. We finally left after all the triple goodbyes, at 4:45 pm. With a short tea stop, we arrived at 11 pm. The student who accompanied us and the driver did not get back on the road until after midnight, because they wanted to make sure that the other foreign dignitary had gotten checked in to the Taramani Guest House at the Indian Institute for Technology- Madras. I had already checked in for one day before I traveled to Salem. Anyway, Indian professional drivers always amaze me how they can stay alert for so long.
We had a long adventure to get to the Gibbon Sanctuary after a short stop back at the Orchid Co-op to buy souvenirs. This was not the first time I would have been happy to spend more money to get a higher quality of craftsmanship, but it just wasn’t available. I bought one of the many roughly carved wooden rhinos, some Assam tea, and some locally grown Stevia leaves.
The Gibbon Rest House was our destination, but Google Maps (and the entire internet) does not know that this business exists. We did have the street address and finally made our way to the goal, which had a giant yellow sign marked Spot On Gibbon Homestay. But the owner, Diganta, insisted that the sign had nothing to do with his business and he would (FIVE YEARS after opening HIS business, FIVE YEARS of confusing his customers later…) ask Spot On to remove the sign. OK. Ok. Ok.
There is very limited information on visiting the Gibbon Sanctuary available on-line, and when planning my trip, I had found a traveler’s blog, and they said they stayed in the “Forest Guest House.” The “Gibbon Rest House” was not IN the sanctuary. It was 15 km away in Jorhat. I complained to the travel agent AGAIN. He said there was no accommodation in the sanctuary. Finally, the guides provided by the government explained that there is a Forest Guest House, but it is only for use by the park employees. So I do not know how those westerners got invited, but I didn’t get the nice forest birdsong I had anticipated as my lullaby. I got normal Indian city noises, loudspeaker blasted Islamic calls to prayer five times a day, and reasonably quiet nights, interrupted by the occasional dog barking, and terminated by some loud roosters.
Compared to the views of the elephants and rhinos, the gibbons were less photogenic. They are entirely arboreal, and they stay high up in the trees, like probably a minimum of 60 feet or 20 meters, and they are not that big. So without special photo equipment the sharability result is limited. But they were a lot of fun to watch swinging through the trees. Thinking about it, I guess that means that if there were gibbons at the Brookfield Zoo (near Chicago) they were probably living too close to the ground for their ultimate happiness. In any case, here is a flavor of what we saw. Overall, in three half days, we saw an apparently unprecedented 6 groups of 1-6 gibbons. The guide provided by the national park, the armed guard (in case we surprised some elephants), our hotel owner host and guide all started telling me at the 10 am breakfast break the first day that I had brought them luck. I told them NO. It was a gift from Maa (Durga, great goddess of India). By the end, we all agreed that 1) I brought them luck 2) Maa blessed my visit and 3) the guides were skilled. I was told that there are people who make the trip and NEVER see a single gibbon. In fact, as we were getting ready to leave Kaziranga, a British woman said they had made a brief stop at the Gibbon Sanctuary and had seen no gibbons. So, there you have it. Diganta bought a wonderful cell phone with a fancy stabilizer, so his video was the best. Here is part of what he shot. The male is black, and female brown. She’s a bit harder to see. They are obviously enjoying life.
Since I am still at the IIT Madras Taramani Guest House with reasonably fast internet, I will now upload a few videos from the dancing at the Orchid Co-op. After the professional dancers finished their 20 minute presentation, the host invited the audience. The Home Science students I had met earlier in the day pushed one of their classmates to sing. She has an angelic voice. Then they all started dancing. They looked really happy. I will have to see what I can do later to add the video. The file is too big, and was captured sideways.
While we are back in the orchid park, and on the subject dancing ladies, I will post the picture of the beautiful Dancing Lady orchid.
The last afternoon in eastern Assam, sated with my blessed and lucky gibbon viewings, we made a small jaunt to a village where the tribal people of Assam still try to maintain a hint of their old life-ways. First thing I see?????? A Baptist church!
There was even a (dry) Baptismal Fount off to the side. Well, I have always been conflicted about Christianity in India. But it provides a counterbalance to the devastation created for the lower caste and out-cast people. All sisters and brothers in Christ is more appealing to the Western democrat than the hierarchical system of the bronze age, as much as modern India has struggled to reduce its damage.
We were invited into the home of one of the families. Everywhere in India, people have wanted to take selfies with me. Here are three family members, including two cute young girls.
I also spent an hour or so talking with my taxi driver, Sarwal, and some members of a tribal “Self Help Group” that had built a small amusement park, complete with boating in a small lake. Like many places in India, it’s not for the weak kneed. I got to practice my Hindi a bit, even though the native language, Assamese, is preferred. These people did not refuse to speak Hindi with the same force as my friends in Tamil Nadu, who mostly claim they do not know any Hindi.
My taxi driver, Sarwal, explained to me that he only looks at Facebook when he is “boring” because he has to wait for his customers to see what they came to see. I tried to have Dharmendra explain the difference between BORING and BORED, but am not sure I had much success.
Well, I am going to post this already very long post, but will briefly jump ahead to my second to last day in India, when I went to the Arignar Anna Zoological Park. It’s the largest zoo in India. They do a lot of work to rehabilitate populations of endangered species. Dressed like an Indian, I was less popular as a selfie subject, but these young ladies asked for one.
We really got lucky with the wildlife we saw. In addition to some pretty close views of elephant groups and rhinos, we saw several pairs of Horned Spoonbills, large birds, and it’s their mating season.
We had three total jeep safaris to see the wild life, and had planned one day to visit a tea plantation. There was ANOTHER communication problem and the tour company left us a morning to figure out on our own how to visit the tea plantations. There wasn’t much going on this time of year, and so there are apparently no ongoing tours. We did stop to look at one tea estate that had tall trees with black pepper vines growing up the trees. The still green pepper corns were plenty spicy.
We then continued wandering around and found a rubber plantation, also without anyone to give a formal tour. But we ran into a field trip of a “Home Science” college class. The young lady and I bonded over our pink clothing and my limited Hindi.
And finally, we ended up at a co-operative venture with an orchidarium, and an ethnic museum, which does dance displays from about twenty of the local tribes, some of whom are trying to maintain a traditional lifestyle of sorts.
Ok. I have arrived at the Taramani Guest House on the campus of the Indian Institute of Technology- Madras. They have blessedly fast wi-fi and so I have gone a little nuts uploading these photos and videos much less painlessly than the last post entailed.
Tomorrow, I am going to Periyar University in Salem, Tamil Nadu, to a Smart Materials Conference. It was a last minute invitation. I’ll be traveling with another person who is attending the main conference I came to India to participate in. So I will have two chances to present my Keynote Talk on The Yoga of Failure Analysis. We’ll be taking a short flight in the morning, staying overnight, giving our talks, then driving back to Chennai to participate in the Heat Treating and Surface Engineering Conference. So I guess it is time to practice my presentation a few more times!
Monday we saw many rhinos, some up pretty close, and some elephants. We also saw a family of elephants cross in front of us on Tuesday afternoon. Here are the movies.
Back in India, I am doing something different. I’m in Assam. That’s part of the little bit of India that sticks out to the east, running along the north of Bangladesh. I flew from Grand Rapids to Guwahati on a single ticket. It was a long ride. The week before I left, an Indian friend told me he had just come back from Guwahati. (Pronounciation: The u isn’t exactly silent, but it’s exceedingly short. It’s a long u sound, so you have to round your lips like you are going to make a long u as in food, but don’t say it. Just go on to the “wahati” part!) And that his sister in law lives there. And that she would invite us to visit. Which we did.
After visiting the handicrafts museum, which sells a camera pass for 100 Rupees, but then won’t let you take photos inside the museum, and won’t sell you postcards of the artifacts either, many of which were pretty cool, but too bad, I guess they don’t want free advertising in all the places their visitors come from, so you only get these two outside photos.
Assam is off the beaten past for tourists in India, even though it is a beautiful area and the people who go generally loved the visit. I was really surprised to find such a mess of horrible traffic ALMOST similar to Delhi, in Guwahati. But there are, I am told, 12 million people in the area of the city. BUT CORRECTION- Wikipedia says around 1 million. So maybe the bottom line is that this city was never designed for so many cars! We left at 6:30 in the evening to visit my friend’s sister-in-law, as it was only 4.6 km away. It took us an HOUR to get there! But she, like me, grows a lot of her own vegetables, and she is a retired physician, and unlike the rest of the country, uses very little salt. It may well have been the best meal I have ever had in India. And the company was very charming!
The next morning, we set off on our adventure to Kaziranga National Park. The tour agency sent us a different driver from the one they had said was coming, but he arrived early and we were ready, so we set off in high spirits. 15 minutes away from the hotel we stayed at the night before, we had a flat tire. Luckily, we had a flat tire fairly close to a tire fixing store. That’s a fixing store. They don’t have new tires. Twenty minutes later we were on our way. But we didn’t find a tire sale shop, so we kept going on the bad tire, which was also almost completely bald, which was also the condition of two of the other tires. In the mean time, two older Indian women pulled up behind us for some reason, being conveyed in the exact same type of tourist taxi with the exact same type of bald tires. So it was nothing personal to give the gringo bald tires. No. And I should have remembered all the bald tires my sister took pictures of on our family trip in 2008.
Half an hour later, our fixed tire blew out, and, the driver decided to put the spare on. We made it the rest of the way….. Hoping against hope that two flat tire events and a wild goose chase for the River Boat Cruise meant that we had used up all of our bad luck for the rest of the trip!
Yes, we did make it the rest of the way, including a two hour detour to Tezpur, where we were supposed to have a cruise on the Brahmaputra River, but only found a sad looking beach…after making our way past the mental hospital, and the city jail, which happened to be right next door to a Montessori school. Huh! That would not go over well in the good old USA.
The tour operator finally returned our calls, but we had given up, having found out it was our driver’s first day of work for this tour company, although he had worked for other local tour companies, and we have since decided he knows what he’s about. He even got us a NEW USED tire to replace the spare that had a busted sidewall.
And finally, here at the Kaziranga National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, I found myself in paradise. Sitting on my balcony in a nice hotel room with all functioning items (there could be a few more electrical outlets, and the bed is, as all beds in Asia, exceedingly hard), listening to the night sounds in February, that I hear at home only in August, watching Jupiter, and a beautiful golden sunset….
Monday am we (I and my tourguide friend Dharmendra, who I asked to come as regular Indian tourguides are reliably mediocre….and he basically considers me family…) got up to have breakfast at 7, so we could be off in the jeep to see the Unicorn White Rhinoceri!!!!!! The moment I had been planning for since March of last year had finally arrived!
Well, it’s late. Tomorrow we’re going to the tea garden, so I am going to wrap this up with a photo.
My sister made a pdf of all the posts, in order, with most of the photos, but not the videos. So you can read it and save it this way to share if you like!